Mobile Welding ServicesOn-site welding & metal repair across Texas — we come to you
Pontoon tube welding
A pontoon tube is a thin aluminum shell holding air between you and the bottom of the lake. When it cracks, the fix has to be a real weld: clean metal, the right filler, full fusion and a test that proves it’s sealed. Alpha Mobile Welding TX coordinates partner welders who repair aluminum pontoon tubes on site across Texas, at your lift, driveway, storage lot or marina. Here’s how the work is done, and why the details decide whether the repair lasts.
Send photos of the leak or crack for a faster estimate. Visit timing depends on partner availability.
What tube welding involves
Most pontoon tubes, also called logs, are rolled from 5052-H32 aluminum sheet. The 5052 part means a magnesium-bearing marine alloy with good corrosion resistance. The H32 part means it was strain-hardened to about quarter-hard and stabilized. Wall thickness on most pontoons falls roughly between .080 and .125 inch. Inside, baffles split the tube into separate chambers, so damage to one doesn’t sink the boat.
Welding a tube means finding every leak, venting and draining the chamber, removing contamination and oxide, and laying a weld that fuses fully into both sides of the joint. Partners use AC TIG for most crack and seam work and a pulsed MIG spool gun for longer runs or patch plates, with argon shielding and 5356 filler wire or rod. The chamber is then retested with low air pressure and soap.
This page focuses on the tube itself. For the full list of pontoon services, see our pontoon boat repair hub. For general aluminum jobs, see aluminum welding near me.
What we fix
Most tube leaks fall into a handful of patterns.
The longitudinal and circumferential seams on a tube carry a lot of stress. Fatigue cracks often start at a weld toe or a small defect in the original seam.
Where deck brackets are welded to the tube, flex concentrates stress. Cracks start at the bracket weld and can run into the tube skin.
Salt, mixed metals and trapped moisture pit the aluminum until a pit goes through. Usually found under brackets and along the waterline.
Rocks, stumps, docks and debris punch holes or tears in the tube, most often near the nose cone or along the bottom.
The weld joining the nose cone to the tube body takes the first hit in every collision and is a common leak point.
Porous, lumpy or cold-lapped welds from earlier repairs leak again. These are ground out completely and redone.
Tube welding services
Every repair includes testing before and after the weld.
Crack located, ends stop-drilled, groove ground to sound metal and welded with full fusion using 5356 filler.
Leaking factory seams ground out along the bad section and rewelded, with the repair blended into sound weld on each end.
Pits ground back to solid aluminum and filled, with doubler plates where the remaining wall is thin.
Insert patches or overlay doublers with rounded corners, sized to spread load and avoid new stress points.
Rewelding the cone-to-tube seam or cutting in a new cone section where the original is crushed.
Grinding out failed weld repairs and doing them properly, with a full chamber retest.
Why Alpha Welding
Tube welding rewards care and punishes shortcuts.
Partners bring AC TIG and spool-gun setups made for thin marine aluminum, not steel rigs adapted for it.
Every repair is pressure-tested before and after welding, so you know it’s sealed.
Lift, driveway, storage lot or marina, so you skip the tow to a shop.
If a tube is too far gone to weld, you’ll hear it before you pay for patches.
How it works
Same steps every time, because they all matter.
Low air pressure and soap find every leak in the chamber, and each one is marked.
The chamber is vented and drained, and the metal is cleaned to bright aluminum.
Cracks are stop-drilled and welded with 5356 filler under argon shielding.
The chamber is pressure-tested again with soap before the boat goes back in.
Technical guide
For owners who want to understand what a good tube repair looks like, here is what partner welders do and why.
The two common aluminum fillers are 4043 and 5356. On 5052 marine aluminum, 5356 is the usual choice. It has higher strength and better ductility in the finished weld, it matches the magnesium content of the base metal better, and it holds up well in salt and fresh water. 4043 flows nicely and resists hot cracking in some alloys, but it gives a weaker, less ductile weld on 5xxx-series marine sheet. Using the right filler is one of the simplest things that separates a lasting repair from one that cracks again.
AC TIG is the go-to for most crack and seam repairs on tubes. The alternating current breaks up the oxide layer on the electrode-positive half of the cycle and drives penetration on the other half, and the welder has fine control over heat on thin metal. A pulsed MIG spool gun is faster for long seams and patch plates and handles out-of-position work well. Both use pure argon shielding gas. The choice depends on the joint, the position and access under the boat.
Aluminum oxide melts at roughly 3,700 degrees Fahrenheit, about three times the melting point of the aluminum under it, so it has to be removed right before welding with a dedicated stainless brush or carbide burr. Hydrogen is the main cause of porosity in aluminum welds, and it comes from moisture, oil, sunscreen, old sealant and lake film. That’s why the area is cleaned with solvent, dried completely and brushed immediately before the arc starts. A weld full of tiny pores will leak, no matter how good it looks on top.
A sealed tube chamber is a pressure vessel in a small way. Heat from welding expands the air inside, and that pressure pushes out through the weld puddle, leaving holes and blowouts. Before welding, the chamber is vented, usually by removing the drain plug or opening a small vent hole that’s welded shut at the end. Water is drained out completely, and wet chambers are given time to dry, because steam does the same thing as hot air.
A fatigue crack keeps running unless its tip is blunted. Before welding, a small hole is drilled just past each visible end of the crack. That stops it from spreading under the heat and stress of welding. The crack is then ground into a shallow groove down to sound metal so the weld fuses through the full thickness instead of bridging over the top.
Unlike stainless steel, aluminum doesn’t normally need a back purge. A purge protects the back of a stainless weld from oxidation, but aluminum welds are protected well enough by shielding from the front side when the joint is clean. On a sealed tube you can’t reach the inside anyway. What matters is full penetration with good prep and the right amperage, not gas on the back.
5052-H32 gets part of its strength from strain hardening. Welding heat anneals the metal right next to the weld, called the heat-affected zone, and that area loses some of its hardened strength. A properly made repair restores a sealed, sound joint, but it isn’t magically stronger than the original tube. That’s why high-stress spots like bracket toes and impact areas get a doubler plate or gusset to spread the load, rather than relying on the weld alone.
Holes and torn sections get a patch. An insert patch is cut to fit flush in the hole and welded all the way around. An overlay doubler sits on top of a thinned or damaged area and is welded around its edges. Either way, corners are rounded, never square, because sharp corners concentrate stress and start new cracks. Patches are sized to reach solid metal on every side.
Some pontoons have foam-filled chambers, and some tritoons carry a fuel tank in the center log. Welding heat can melt or ignite foam, so foam near the repair is cut back first. Any space that held fuel or fuel vapor must be emptied, ventilated and made safe before heat is applied. Partners won’t weld near fuel until it’s safe. Tell us about either when you call.
The chamber is sealed and given a very small amount of air pressure through a regulator, usually a couple of psi, then soapy water is brushed along every seam, bracket and suspect area. Bubbles mark leaks. Too much pressure can bulge or split thin tube skin, so a shop compressor at full output is never used. The same test is repeated after welding to prove the chamber is sealed.
Send close-up photos of the previous weld. Porous or lumpy repairs are common, and grinding them out and redoing them usually solves it.
Service areas
Partner welders cover lakes, bays and storage lots across Texas. Availability is confirmed for each address. Find your area below.
FAQs
What owners ask about welding aluminum pontoon tubes.
Yes. Most tubes are 5052-H32 marine aluminum, which welds well with 5356 filler when the metal is clean, dry and the chamber is vented. Cracks, seam leaks, pinholes and punctures are all standard repairs, followed by a low-pressure air and soap test.
For cracks and holes, yes. Epoxy and sealants can slow a leak for a while, but they don’t restore the metal and often fail with flexing and temperature changes. They also contaminate the surface, which makes a later weld harder. A proper weld is the lasting fix.
The most common reasons are porosity from moisture or contamination, poor fusion into the base metal, the wrong filler, or a crack that wasn’t stop-drilled and kept running. The fix is to grind out the old repair completely and reweld it properly.
5356 is the usual choice on 5052 marine aluminum. It gives a stronger, more ductile weld than 4043 on this alloy and holds up well in fresh and salt water.
Alpha Mobile Welding TX coordinates partner welders across Texas, including Houston, Dallas, Fort Worth, Austin, San Antonio, Corpus Christi and the major lakes. Call or text 979-250-7486 with photos and your location to check availability.
It depends on the number of leaks, access, whether foam or water has to come out, the need for patches and travel. A single pinhole costs far less than a torn cone or wide corrosion. Photos let us give you a realistic estimate first.
A single crack or pinhole is often done in a few hours, including testing, venting, draining, welding and retest. Patch plates, cones or several leaks take longer. Scheduling depends on partner availability, and same-day visits are never guaranteed.
Request an estimate
Send photos of the crack or leak and tell us where the boat is. We’ll reply with an estimate and partner availability near you.

Free estimate
Submit your info and we will call you back as soon as possible. Prefer to talk now? Call 979-250-7486.
Presupuesto gratis
Envíe sus datos y le llamaremos lo antes posible. ¿Prefiere hablar ahora? Llame al 979-250-7486.